There is some confusion about the various Argentinian establishments in London. I think it’s important to know the difference between them as this could make your day or not.
So, if you want to exprience the real Argentine food and ambience you have to go to El Gaucho. There are 2 El Gaucho restaurants in London, one in South Kensington and one in Chelsea (only open for lunch). They are the first argentinian restaurants in the UK capital and offer traditional food prepared and served in realistic argentinian settings. The meat of course, is really good. I was at the South Kensington one yesteday and I was impressed by the fast service in spite of the place been packed. My Bife Ancho was sublime as was my company.
Don’t confuse El Gaucho with the Gaucho restaurant chain. This is a much more modern, pricey and less authentic argentinian experience. Yes, the food is good but a bit overpriced and adapted to European/British taste. There are many Gaucho restaurants around London, they are perfect for a business lunch or for a fancy meal with friends in the evening. Don’t get me wrong, the meat is good, but not to the level of the El Gaucho places. And what’s with all that fish in the menu???
There are other 2 important Argentine restaurants in London, Buen Ayre and Santa Maria del Sur– here’s a summary of their story:
In 2004 Alberto Abbate and John Rattagan opened “Santa Maria del Buen Ayre”, in Broadway Market, a cobbled in the heart of Hackney. To John and Alberto it felt like a little piece of San Telmo, one of the oldest and most attractive barrios in Buenos Aires, and they fell in love with the place straight away. After gutting and refurbishing the joint themselves and intalling the parrilla, the grill they had custom-made in Argentina, “Santa Maria del Buen Ayre” opened its doors. It was an immediate hit with public and press alike.
Two years later, encouraged by their success in Hackney, John and Alberto opened a second branch, south of the river. For their new venture they chose a bigger space in Queenstown Road in Battersea, not far from to the famous Power Station. The instant success they enjoyed in Hackney was replicated in Battersea and from the day they opened on December 21st 2006 it has been full every weekend.
Sometime in 2008 I believe John and Alberto decided go their separate ways, John keeping the original branch in Hackney, which is now called Buen Ayre, while Alberto Abbate runs the new place in Battersea, renamed “Santa Maria del Sur”.
Now, I have been many times to the original one in Broadway Market and I can say that although at the beginning the food was excellent and by far the best meat in London, later I have been disappointed more than once. I could overlook the poor service and the stuffy chips because the meat was exceptional, but now I don’t think I’ll go again – the last 3 times I was there the meat was rock hard. I will miss their fantastic provoleta though.
I have not been to Santa Maria del Sur yet but I am earing only good things so it’s next in my list and I have a good feeling it won’t disappoint.
I also hear about a new restaurant in Highbury, Garufa, somehow connected to Santa Maria del Sur. They also do catering which seems a very clever idea. I’ll be sure to check it out soon and report back.
Meanwhile, John Rattagan of Buen Ayre, has opened a new grill in Farringdon called A La Cruz that promises to be very interesting.
A few general things about ordering at these restaurants.
The meat is good, so it’s just a matter of your preference about the cut you chose, get the waiters to explain to you the difference, but in general you won’t be disappointed.
Don’t get excited and order too much: share the starter, I’d recommend the provoleta, especially if you have never tried it or the chorizo, but not both, trust me. Then order the meat and share the side, either chips or salad. One word of warning: I have never had good chips at argentinian restaurants, in London as in Buenos Aires, they just can’t make them, they are too stuffy and taste of very little. Drink Quilmes or Malbec from Mendoza to appreciate Argentina even more. Get dessert only if you are still really hungry but, again, Argentines are famous for beef and wine, nothing else.
CityandOut 